Well Project 3 is done, and I’m calling this one Finn.
(Note, these are NOT real time speeds, this routine was shot as a timelapse with 10 second intervals on both robots)
This one was a real pain in the ass due to some errors I made. I wanted a nice finish so I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the aluminum and prepping it to be painted. Even after hours of prep, once the paint dried some of it immediately flaked off. I decided to give my hand a powder coating, which is not something I have ever done before, but first I had to strip it back down to the metal. I picked up some excellent paint stripper from Ace Hardware, which also melted the gloves I was using and gave me some minor chemical burns. I found the best way is to use long pliers and some steel wool.
I picked up a powder coating system and practiced on a couple pieces of scrap metal and it worked great. It is not a pro-grade job for sure, but considering this was my first attempt at it, I feel i did pretty good. Just make sure you have a good hobby oven for this sort of thing. I have a convection oven i use for cooking circuit boards which was perfect, just sit the grate at the very top and hang the pieces from it.
Unfortunatly when I took the Pan/Tilt frame out of the oven, one of the welds broke loose. The motor mounts were not going to come off, so I had to either order new motor mounts and delay the process, or strip it all again. So I learned that paint stripper works well with powder coating as well. A few more minor chemical burns later, I cleaned it all up, re-filed the areas for the weld, and re-welded it. This time it is very solid though, once it cooled down I wrenched on the parts trying to break them loose and they are not coming apart. re-powder-coated it again, and this time I was golden.
The final build went pretty easy. I did have to re-tap some of the screw holes where the powdercoating got in, but that was not a big deal.
The BDIU (Biolapse Dragonframe Interface Unit) was sort of a pain in the ass. I wanted to have some sort of port in which to plug the motors, so i marked out some lines, drilled some holes, and used some files to shape the holes into rectangles. Drilled a spot for the power supply and another one for the USB and then powder coated it.
I decided to attach the box underneath, but this box could easily have some feet stuck on the bottom and be perfectly sitting on a bench or set somewhere.
The connections are stupid easy. Add a 12v power supply (preferably 6amp, but right now its running just fine on a 2amp channel off the 12v power center I built for my studio) and a USB cable to a computer running Dragonframe and presto, instant motion control for timelapse or stop-motion animation.
I admit, the rail is a bit short, 400mm of travel. But for this kind of work longer sliders just get in the way.
So if anyone is interested in one of these, After doing the entire build, i would be happy to build them for $1500 a pop for a 4 axis system, any color you want. That would include slide, pan, tilt, and linear. The specs would be custom to your needs and built to order. Price may or may not go up depending on the requirements. If interested shoot me an email.
But even as a failure, it is the most important timelapse I have done to date. The subject is a Nepenthes Sanguinea.
When I started to film this plant, I had a rough guess as to how the plant was going to behave. I have a lot of trash footage, because unfortunately as much as I want to predict the plant, they often have a way of surprising me and either growing out of frame, or out of focus, and when that happens the entire shoot is trashed. The longer the shoot, the bigger the risk of failure, and the larger loss of time.
I have been working on a technique I call Interactive Timelapse, which is a technique that allows me to follow the plant, so if it grow outside the area in focus, I can make live adjustments on the fly and continue to film. An entire year of building Otto, learning Dragonframe, working out the bugs, improving my workflow, and learning how to resolve issues mid-shoot has led up to this failure of a time lapse, and I have never been so excited about the work I am doing.
First off, thanks to the team at Dragonframe, all the bugs are finally worked out. Otto is running perfectly. A huge thank you to Dyami for his time and energy in helping me resolve these. Once Otto was finally running 100% rock solid, I was finally comfortable to take filming to new lengths and increasing the intervals to an Hour and longer.
This one first failed about 240 frames into the shoot. I was filming the closest pitcher with the intent to move the focus to the tip on the growing leaf, then follow it through its entire pitcher development. Around frame 240 the “nub” drifted out of focus. So I stopped the routine, moved Otto about 20 frames ahead, corrected the focus, then moved back to the last frame taken, and re-started the system.
It failed again about 50 frames later, same type of issue, same type of fix. And then again right before the nub makes contact to the ground, I had mis-predicted the location it would land and had to make more adjustments. After the pitcher was growing, the grass it landed in ended up pushing it to grow away from the camera, so another focus adjustment.
All of these were corrected, so why is it a failure? My stupid BCM failed to shut off the grow lights after 3 weeks and I got about 20 frames in a row where the grow light contaminated the images, that one I can NOT recover.
However, this is a proof of concept that I CAN in fact chase plants, respond to realtime changes, and alter the program on the fly, and to my knowledge this has never been done before.
I need to come up with a better name. But so far it is moving along wonderfully. I had to make some part adjustments, the list is NOT updated as of Aug/24/2017. I will get around to that when I have more time.
So when we left off last time, most of the parts were in, and the Pan/Tilt frame was welded together.
The motor mounts were installed next, and that was a bit of a pain in the ass. I wanted to weld them on but the welds did not take. I think it is a different kind of aluminum. I ended up squishing one of the mounts in the process, so I went the old school route and bolted them on. The easiest way is to mark the holes and drill them through BOTH sides of the frame. That gives you a small hole for the hex wrench to go through to reach and turn the 6-32 screws. Once those were in place I used some aluminum epoxy filler to fill in the holes. To make sure the screws did not back out I used locktight on the threads and covered the screw heads in the aluminum epoxy.
As for the placement of the mounts, I just sort of eyeballed it.
You can see the epoxy on the frame in the previous picture, it is covering the holes drilled in the frame used to tighten the screws to the mounts.
The frame was painted with just your typical metal friendly rattle-can spray paint. I chose gloss white for this project.
I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the aluminum and prepping it for paint, yet i still have a couple tiny areas that flaked. I might strip all the paint off and try out powder coating.
The cradle was made from a couple pieces of 2in x .25in aluminum bars. I cut them to the desired length, then held them together with some 90 degree clamps and drilled/tapped some holes to join them together.
Now that part is out of the way, I wanted to get the head mounted to the rail.
The extrusion has slots with some bolts in it, makes for an easy connection. I took a 2x2inch x 1/2 inch piece of aluminum and drilled some holes in it. 4 bolts facing down to connect to the anchors in the extrusion, and then 4 6-32 x 1 inch screws facing up into the larger hub clamp.
Easy enough. All of this can be done with a few bits and a drill press, just gotta make sure to countersink the holes so the heads recess under the surface. I did go ahead and add a hole in the middle that you cant see with a 3/8th inch tap so the pan/tilt can mount direct to a tripod.
This bracket gives a nice solid connection. My intention was to make this a 2 part connection, with the Rail mounted part using a 3/8th inch screw post, with a small 1 inch tall x 1.5 inch wide round base on the head with a 3/8th inch tapped hole. That way i could unscrew the head anytime i wanted, and even install a leveling plate in case I wanted to hold the rail at an angle. However I had one of those HOLY SHIT moments when cutting some 1.5inch aluminum stock. The piece I was cutting off ended up getting sucked up into the miter saw with a nice gunshot sound. So now my diablo aluminum blade is jacked up. This is the 2nd blade I have managed to destroy, and at 60 bucks they are not cheap. 🙁
I wanted to get this mounted so I had to improvise with what you see here.
I am super excited about how this project is turning out. I have to pick up a new aluminum blade so I can make the connection plate beneath the rail so I can connect it to to a tripod. Unfortunatly the extrusions walls are too thin to just punch and tap a hole, I’ll need a thicker plate beneath it and then secure it to the rail via the channel connectors.
Things I still need to work through
I am not overly happy about the paint. I spent quite a bit of time prepping the aluminum and it is already chipping in some spots. Being a studio queen, this would probably be fine and look great for years, but I would rather try to tackle this issue sooner than later. I have been reading up on powder coating, and I think that may be the right way to go.
The problem with avoiding expensive CNC mills on this project is that the holes for the bearings are limited to the size of the bit. if using a CNC, i could measure these in a few thousandths of an inch and get a nice tight fit. When looking at the photo, you may be able to tell that things are not perfectly held at 90 degree angles. I am looking into some possible shim ideas to tighten these up a bit.
The Pan/Tilt got pretty heavy with these motors. This is not really a problem, but the motors are a little bit overkill for this project. I think next time some heard NEMA 11’s would be more appropriate. Aside from that, I am very pleased with how this is going 🙂
I still need a place to mount the Arduino and driver board. I have not picked out a box for it yet either.
Overall current impression I have to admit, I am very pleased with how this is going. It looks fantastic, and once I get the rest of this dialed in i have no doubt this will be a very capable system and a wonderful addition to my team of photography robots. The bearings are nice and smooth, everything is held together nicely, and I cant wait to fire it up, I just have to get the tripod connection worked out first. This will probably actually be a 6 axis robot, if I can get both focus motors mounted for Focus and Zoom control, and then I plan to have this system drive a turntable as well.
So while it is not perfect yet, by the time I am done with it this will be a rock solid little robot.
Heads up, if there are any animators or timelapse photographers that are interested in a dragonframe moco rig like this please let me know. I hope to have enough information here where an enterprising person might be able to build their own, and if somebody wants to try I am always willing to offer assistance. However, if somebody wants one of these pre-built, that is also a possibility. Cost for a complete dragonframe ready system would be about $1200+ depending on rail length, any extra design considerations, etc. Email me, Chris@biolapse.com and we can discuss it. Turnaround time is not fast (2-4 weeks depending on part availability and my schedule), but I would keep you in the loop on the progress of the build.
“The Holy Grail” is a term often used among time lapse photographers when referring to complete day to night transitions. These are notoriously difficult and time consuming to pull off. When I first started this weird hobby of filming time, there were very few of these done. Now-a-days with the introduction of many new intervalometers and software programs aimed at de-flickering, you can find quite an abundance of very well done day to night transitions. I admit, I have never successfully done one. But my interests lie elsewhere. More on this subject later.
There is a certain amount of technical difficulties I expect when working with these sorts of systems. Especially since most equipment was not meant to be run days/weeks at a time without a break. Most of the issues I have worked through, but two of them had been plaguing me off and on ever since I built Otto and started using Dragonframe. The first issue is when the camera shuts off for no reason, and the second is when it fails to capture an image.
Both of these finally appear to be resolved, if you want more on this check my Dragonframe Troubleshooting page. Top menu, Robots > Dragonframe > Dragonframe Troubleshooting
THIS CHANGES EVERYTHING
Those last two issues were holding me up. I was hesitant to start longer term work until I had everything worked out. (this is the reason for all the flower timelapse I had been doing, short shoots, low commitment) Now I have a high level of confidence that the system is working properly, I am able to start doing the things I always wanted to try.
There is not a lot of botanical timelapse work out there. Generally all you find are flowers blooming, or grass growing. You find other plants, but it is often really shitty work with lots of flicker and jumps and such done by a webcam as a novelty and thrown up on Youtube low res. You do find some folks doing stuff similar to what I am doing, and some of it is quite impressive for sure! I have seen some excellent set building and some amazing results. But the motion is still normally very limited to basic moves, a turntable, a slide, not much else. The duration of the filming is often measured in hours with quick growing plants, spanning a few days, seldom breaking a week.
Botanical Timelapse is pretty difficult. First you have to be able to predict the plants, which seldom behave. Filming a flower blooming over the course of 8-9 hours is chalk full of challenges, but filming a flower for a slower 2-3 day bloom has a much higher chance of failure. If you go more than a few days, depending on the plant you may have to introduce day/night sequences which makes it even more difficult. You might film for 4 days and screw it up by watering the plant incorrectly which may cause an unwanted jump in growth. Adding Motion Control increases the complexity and increases the potential failure points. Not only does your lighting have to work, and camera has to work, but even if those work perfectly if your MoCo fails the whole shoot is ruined and days of effort are down the drain. I think this is why most motion control you find with this work is limited to a turntable. If the subject is in the middle and growing straight up, it will probably stay in focus.
What about plants that grow differently though? If the plants growth takes it out of the area in focus, you have to be able to predict it and work with it, which requires a more advanced Motion Control system that can handle focus control as well as Keyframing. Then you are playing the game of “I hope the plant grows as I predict”, and you pre-program the camera motion and start it up and hope that the plant behaves as expected. If the plant overshoots/undershoots, then you just wasted days or weeks of shooting.
Correcting Bad Behavior
This is where Dragonframe brings something amazing to the table. This is the only system I am aware of that gives you the ability to observe/react/respond real time to changes in the plants. And that is exactly what I am doing right now with my current shoot, and to say I was excited about this is an understatement.
In my current scenario. I started out by moving the camera to its starting point, and logged its current position which created its first keyframe. I then moved the camera to the next position and logged that, then the next, and the next and so on until the entire move was mapped out. I then moved it back to the first position and checked the focus, and moved it forward along the path on each keyframe, and between the keyframes checking the focus, and anytime it drifted I would make an adjustment and add a new keyframe for just the focus.
I am shooting a leaf on a Nepenthes(Pitcher plant). This leave shoots way out, and the tip starts to grow and reach to the ground, where it will land and the tip forms a pitcher. I don’t know exactly where it will be so I am doing a rough guess with the motion sequence. I have been filming the past 7 days, and periodically check the progress. Last night I noticed that the pitcher was moving further out than I expected, and the angle of the leaf is starting to pull the pitcher bud out of focus. If I let it continue, the shoot will be ruined, and I would have lost a week of filming.
At the moment, I was at frame 210. The last image had been taken 5 minutes ago with 40 min left until the next image is taken. I stop the routine and apply a new keyframe on the focus where it is currently at to lock that position down, then move the camera to frame 230, which is the position it will be after 20 more frames. I then adjust the focus, and them move up another 60 frames to frame 290, and do the same. Once I feel I have corrected the course for the focus, I return the camera back to the position for frame 210 and verify everything lines up correct on the live view vs the last image taken at frame 219 and re-start the system at frame 219.
I can correct for the plant, in the past, I was stuck making the decision of hoping things correct themselves, risking losing another 5-6 days of shooting, or scrapping the whole shoot and lose the last 7 days of filming.
This morning I checked again and the pitcher had started its downward drop to the ground. It was placing it in a spot where it would land slightly out of frame. The current path was going to continue a slight tilt drop, But I was worried it would not be enough. I stopped the system, locked in a new keyframe at its current spot. Then moved about 60 frames in the future and sure enough the tilt was not enough, so I deepened the tilt until the area the pitcher would land was in frame, saved the adjustment, then moved back to the current spot. And that is when things went to hell.
The Z axis started dropping, and the Y axis started pulling in. Both were moving very slow but they WERE moving and I never told it to. I immediately disabled the stepper drivers to stop the motion, and in the ARC motion page I managed to get the motion to stop. I knew all the other motors had returned to the correct spot, it was only the Z and Y that had moved. I hit the button to return the motors to the current position and re-enabled the stepper drivers. I manually moved Z and Y until they were lined back up at what looked like the correct spot. This took a little bit of back and forth looking at the current position and prior until I had everything in place. Then I disabled the drivers again, told it to return to the shooting position, and re-enabled the drivers. Now everything was back where it was supposed to be, the shoot had not failed.
I don’t know why Z and Y did what they did. But it only took about 5 minutes to correct the mistake, and I re-started the program. I ran a test shot and verified that everything was lined up fairly well. There is a tiny slight bump, but it is difficult to notice and can easily be corrected using the warp stabilizer in Adobe After Affects.
The shoot is saved, and currently things are moving along smoothly. Making these adjustments is always risky, and should never be done arbitrarily, but only when absolutely required. But even when the Z and Y axis started running free I was still able to recover the shoot.
I hate the term “game changer” because that is used so often. Oh this camera has a slightly higher FPS than the old version, what a freaking game changer. In this case though, it is not hyperbole, because this level of botanical timelapse would be impossible without the flexibility of Dragonframe.
This shoot has 2 weeks left before it ends. If the pitcher develops quicker or slower than expected I can adjust for that. When it gets towards the end, I may even pull the camera back a bit and shift over to one of the two smaller pitcher plants on the set and see if one of them has a new pitcher forming that I can film and maybe even the other small one as well, all in the same clip! The point is I now have the ability to film things as they happen, rather than pre-programming a move and hoping it all works out. As far as I know, nobody has ever done this before.
So what does this have to do with the “The Holy Grail”? ‘
I remember when I first started getting serious about photography 8 years ago I heard a quote. I don’t know who first said it, I believe it came to me as a re-quote, but one of the best bits of advice in life is “If you ever find yourself surrounded by other photographers, you are in the wrong spot” I have found that quote to be absolutely correct in so many ways, in so many times, and so many subjects, and well beyond photography. Find your own path, find your own vision, find your own self. This is my personal holy grail. This is the capability I have spent the last year trying to achieve, and It means I will be able to produce botanical time lapse unlike anything that has ever been done before, and show people something they have never seen. I am so close!!!!!
This is turning out to be a super fun little project!
Made some good progress. A lot of the parts are in, still waiting on the motors from OMC, and I just ordered the gearing (yikes those are expensive) from SDP-SI.com
The Aluminum extrusion is simple 1 inch x 2 inch stock. It will make a nice lightweight frame for little cost. All I did was cut a couple pieces off, I sort of just guessed the length. About 6 inches on the vertical, 5 on the horizontal.
Cut it with a standard miter saw using a blade intended to cut metals. I wrecked one of these blades once when handholding a 2 inch thick piece of aluminum stock while cutting through it. Damn near gave me a heart attack, it sounded like a gunshot.
Anyway, the point is, use a good aluminum cutting blade and you might want to spray some wd 40 on it to lubricate it and help cool the blade.
This was simple enough, marked the spot I wanted the holes, then using a small bit (smaller than the pilot hole portion of the dewalt bit) I used my drill press and put it all the way through the stock to create some guide holes. I then drilled out the larger hole with the dewalt, flipped it over and hit the other side. You REALLY need to do this with a drill press. Hand holding it will not work. Also be use to use some WD40 to lubricate the stock as the hole saw cuts, and be sure to clean the shavings several times while cutting through.
So now i have the holes!
Next was to test the fitment of the bearings, and sure enough they fit pretty well. it is not a snug fit, but there is very little room for them to move. I might put a small ring of tape around them just to help make them nice and snug. Maybe.
At this point I was fairly excited about how everything was going, but did not realize that shit was about to get soooo much cooler. I was trying to find out the best way to join the parts. I was suspecting I would have to get an aluminum block and drill and tap some holes to get them joined up. Then I found an awesome video on youtube that shows how to weld aluminum with a blow torch. Dont worry, the torch can be had for about 25 bucks. And you will need some aluminum brazing rods. Go hit youtube and look for welding aluminum with torch and you will find various videos of this technique.
First step is to bevel the edges a bit to create a channel for the aluminum. it aals roughs it up a bit for a more secure grip.
Next you need to clamp the parts together the way you want them. I did not have a clamp with large enough jaws, luckily there is a Harbor Freight a few miles for my house for super cheap throw away tools. This clamp only cost 3 bucks.
Next I secured it in a vice clamp to hold it while I heated the stock.
This part took a while. The videos all say it takes about 5 min. the idea is to get the stock so how that when you touch the brazing rod to it that it instantly melts and runs down the channels. I did test this out on a couple pieces of aluminum to have at least one test run under my belt before the real deal. It took about 3 min to get it hot enough
Once the metal is hot enough, just touch the brazing rod it it and it melts and fills in the channels.
its not super pretty but far nicer than I had expected for my 2nd time trying this sort of thing.
Then back to the grinder to remove the excess welding. Be sure you give it a good 10 to 15 minutes to cool before you try touching it.
Using a file for a little extra cleanup.
And here it is! Bearings and posts back in place, it looks fantastic 🙂
Playing around with it a bit. The gears and belts are en route, as well as a few part modifications I had to make. Once I have those parts in i can make the final fitment and weld on the motor mounts and work out the base. Then I will take everything apart and get to paint. I had originally wanted to go with Fire Engine Red , but after some consideration I have another idea. I’ll have to take the CNC Slider apart as well, might as well try to make everything match and look nice.
I can’t express how excited I am about this project. I never knew you could weld aluminum this way. I suppose a tig welder would probably give a better bond, but this is more than solid enough for my uses. This newfound ability is really going to be beneficial for me moving forward. I am already thinking about the next robot I am going to build. I am considering some sort of a crane or something next.