First off. Happy Holidays! I hope everyone had a good one. Pretty good on my side. I spoiled the crap out of my kid. Legos. 3DS. Go Kart. Clothes, more toys. The real winner this Christmas in my view was me. My parents went through painstaking details to put together 7 photo albums that include history of my family over 400 years. Some of the photos are over 100 years old!
Mom, Dad, I love you!
I had 6 days off for the holidays. A large amount of that time was spent debugging Otto. This of course means a lot of stepping up a stepstool, dropping something, stepping down, picking up, stepping up, dropping, stepping down, stepping up. Repeat 100x. I have learned quite a bit about patience.
I think I have been working on Otto for close to 4 months now. It has been a major endeavour. A lot of money. A lot of time. But things are finally starting to pay off. I had run a timelapse of a venus fly trap which really did not turn out well for many reasons. One of them was the movement. “Close enough” is not good enough. This rig i have built has the potential to do it perfectly every time. I just need the patience to work through the issues. For those who do not know me personally, I am a fixer. If something is broken, I fix it. I spent over 20 years in telecommunications fixing things. Everything from voice stuff, to IP stuff. DMS, 5ess, Sonus, Cisco, Juniper, Broadsoft, Adtrans, washer, dryer, electrical, automotive, toys, You name it. (well except relationships, I have never quite figured out women)
Troubleshooting is something I have become pretty good at. I had an instructor, Mr. Khuns, he taught me about a Short, and a Known Open while in technical training in the USAF. Everything in troubleshooting boils down to the Short, and the Known Open. That applies for anything you will ever troubleshoot.
So that was my week. Fixing Otto.
The Venus Fly Trap timelapse was a failure in terms of content, but a huge success in helping me understand what Otto’s shortcomings are. I made some huge steps this past week, and i have just a little bit more to do before Otto will be in top shape.
Bear in mind, I am asking a LOT of this system. all of the test videos are stop motion. none of them are real time. This means that 12 second clip took at least 30 minutes to gather the footage. The Elevator and Pan/Tilt system weight about 40lbs and extend about 4 feet. Coaxing moves that are less than 0.15mm… well.. lets just say im pretty please with myself.
Here is a video that shows some of the test footage with some voiceover that explains/shows what I was running into and what I did to resolve it. Warning, if you are not into the BTS of the technical side, this may be a bit dry.
The good news is I finally feel confidant that it is time to stop tweaking Otto and to start building sets for filming.
I have been working on an outline for a virtual studio visit. I think it may be a fun project, I hope to start shooting that next week. Subscribe! Also check me out on facebook and instagram on the side bars.
Cant just have shit work. Always running into issues.
Om my third attempt for a timelapse in the last few days. Started on Dec 4th. Everything was setup and looking good.
Back to the BCM for timing. Everything was looking good. Checked on the progress last night when i got home from work, and of course the BCM shows 92 shots while Dragonframe only shows 50.
The 6D kept saying FULL. Best I can tell, it is referring to the memory card, which is NOT in the camera. When tethered the image is sent directly to the PC
I continued to have problems until I removed the Canon N3 connector, after which everything seemed to clear up.
I still had some space available on the hard drive it is saving to. Not sure why it was doing that. It is the first time I had run into the issue.
I am starting to think the USB connection from camera to laptop is problematic. I have a 6 foot Mini USB to USB, connected to two 10 foot USB extensions for a total of 26 feet. Turns out USB should be under 16 feet. So last night I ordered an Active USB extender which should boost the signal to get a better connection.
I am also wondering about the power supply. The one I am using is a 3rd party power cable. I did notice that the battery level on the camera starts out full, and eventually drops. I have not seen it drop lower than losing a single mark off the battery indicator, just to be on the safe side I managed to find a genuine Canon ACK-E6
Hi Folks. So i have a couple current problems that seem to stem from this Dragonframe DMC-16
SEE UPDATE 12/5/2016 at the end
I figured i would spend some time going over it, what it can do, what it is having problems with, and what I am HOPING to get resolved via Dragonframes support department.
That is the DMC-16.
It provides several critical functions
It has a huge amount of capability, but it is also very expensive. about $1800 with shipping. Add in the $300 software and you have a sizeable investment on this system. That does NOT get you any of the hardware, motors, drivers, gears, cameras, cables, laptop, lights, dimmer packs, or anything else that goes along with it.
However when you look at the amount of capability, nothing even comes close. This software and the DMC-16 have been used on some very impressive stop-motion animations that killed it in the Box Office including Boxtrolls, Kubo and the Two Strings, Shaun of the Sheep…. When considering how much you CAN do with it, and the huge amount of incredibly well though out features, even $2100 for this control system is an absolute bargain. This is the standard in Hollywood for stop motion animation.
Now this is where I stop boasting about it and throw it right the hell under a bus for a minute.
I like this system, I like Dragonframe, but i have been running into some issues. I have some messages in with the company, I am hoping they can help me out.
1) External Trigger.
Mine stopped working. There is a 3 prong DMX output used to trigger the camera. Why they used this I have NO idea. There are NO camera cables I have ever found that terminate to this connection, so I had to make my own. Luckily I have built hundreds of camera trigger cables in the past 5 years. It is not terribly difficult, but a 2.5 or 3.5 TRS connector would make more sense to me.
Biolapse is a time consuming process. Some shoots will take days, some will take weeks, even a month. It is important that I am able to maximise my results by constantly shooting multiple cameras. I have the 6D on the main rig, two Sony A7’s, a Fuji XE-1, Fuji XT-1, and a Panasonic GH4. I like to have 4-5 cameras shooting at a time. Otto is my main rig with 8 degrees of movement on the main stage. another 5 Axis rig that gives linear, focus, pan and tilt and rotary for the 2nd stage. And then there will be a third stage behind the Main with a turntable and a static camera. That is 3 cameras right there. Then I have the option of setting up a couple static cameras for additional footage, or for some BTS work. All of these cameras have to shoot at the same damn time. They need to be triggered by the SAME source. To pull this off, i built a 10 channel splitter, each channel is discrete using optocouplers which is sort of like a relay, but has no moving parts to wear out. This keeps the circuitry from all the cameras separated. I have used this Splitter for years now and it has never failed me. It is a smart splitter using an Arduino for the brains. This means I can program each channel to behave however I want. If i want it to shoot, wait, then shoot a 2nd time, or hold a longer signal, or skip every other shot, or use a delay I have plenty of flexibility.
Until Thanksgiving, the splitter was triggered by the shutter control from the DMC-16. Then, on thanksgiving it stopped triggering the cameras. The USB connection still caused the Canon 6D on Otto to trigger, but all the other cameras stopped.
I have been fairly exhaustive in looking through the manual for anything I can find that would cause it not to work. I followed the instructions for making sure it was enabled, yet nothing I do can get it to work. I would suspect it has a faulty optoisolator on it, but if I reset the DMC-16 it causes all the cameras to trigger. Also, I had tried reloading the firmware and that caused it to trigger all the cameras quite a few times. This tells me hardware = ok. Something in the software is preventing it from working. I have spent quite a bit of time designing/building camera control systems, building camera cables, building smart splitters. I know exactly how these systems work, but i cant for the life of me get the DMC-16 to trigger.
I ended up rigging up an alternate fix. I have some Yongnuo wireless flash triggers. I put the trigger on the Canon, and the receiver plugged into the splitter. Now when the Canon opens its shutter the Trigger signals the reciever and that signals the splitter, which gets all the cameras working.
This is fine for a workaround, but I want to know why it is behaving the way it is. Luckily Dragonframe has a pretty slick trouble reporting system built in, and it grabs all the data from your shoot, screenshots of your setup, all the XML information and puts it in a package. So if I have messed up somehow they should be able to identify where/how. TO be honest I dont think it was something I had managed to cause. We will see, they have been good about responding.
2) Internal trigger.
Ok, some more bullshit to deal with. The DMC sometimes does not see the trigger from the BCM. The BCM (biolapse control module) is the timing system I have been using the last few years. It controls the temp, humidity, watering cycles, day/night cyclesfor the grow lights, and will even turn off the grow lights off and the fill lights on when it is ready to take an image, and trigger the cameras. It has been running for years flawlessly.
I had decided to keep using it as it will make sure the humidifier is disabled 3 minutes before it shoots. This prevents any fog from the humidifier from being present when it shoots. It also has dual power inputs, one for the logic and the fill lights which would be plugged into an UPS in event of power outage the fill lights would STILL work. The Grow lights and humidifier are on another power rail which would NOT be plugged into the UPS, so if a power outage happens the grow lights and humidifier just shut off rather than sucking power out of the battery backup.
The DMC seems to have issues of reliability with an external trigger. It works great for the most part but i keep having situations where it no longer sees the trigger from the BCM. I dont think it is the BCM that is the problem, because when it happens I dont reset the BCM, i reset the DMC-16 and it starts working again.
I tried running the BCM at a 5 minute interval yesterday, and put Dragonframe into a 5 minute timelapse interval and let them run free. However something happened and they drifted, and after about 50 frames Otto started snapping shots while the grow lights were still on.
Today I pulled the BCM out, and tied the growlights in as a BASH light using a DMX dimmer pack i purchased.
The Bash light is a work light that would normally come on between images so the artists could move the puppets between frames and have good lighting. Then it shuts the BASH light off before it takes an image, and turns it back on afterward. By setting a day/night timer between the dimmer pack and the grow lights, i can still maintain Day/Night sequences and have the grow lights shut off when it takes the images.
This is not ideal. The BCM kept the power rails separate. Now if a power outage hits, the 30min of battery life I maintain during that power outage is going to be reduced to about 25 minutes. I would rather have the full thirty.
This may just be what I have to live with though, not a HUGE deal, but I would much prefer controlling the lighting sequences through the BCM as i can program in the Pre-shot delay on disabling the lights and the Post shot delay on turning them back on. Plus i have to be more mindful of the humidifier
3) Limit Switches
They dont work for shit to be honest. The system has i think 8 sets of limit switches. You dont need them for the most part, but I had planned on limit switches on the X Y and Z axis. Here is what I am running into
Y axis, one the far end when the limit switch is triggered (just a whisker switch at the end, when the gantry gets too close to the back it tuns into the whisker and triggers the switch) it stops the rig as expect, albeit not fast enough, it just slows to a stop. In my view it should just stop immediately like my chronos rails would. So this means you have to have extra long switch and make sure it will still stop before reaching the end. this is a design flaw in my view.
Once that switch is hit, it slows to a stop and will not move in that direction anymore. However, I CAN back it out the opposite direction. Makes sense right? That is how it SHOULD work.
When the Y axis nears the closer end, it hits the switch and slows to a stop. I can no longer move it in that direction. Makes sense. However I cant move it in the other direction either! So i have to shut off the goddamn motor (thank god I had the brains to add disable switches on the power box) and twist the ball screw by hand to back it out enough in order to disengage that limit switch. WTF?
I had wired in a single limit switch for the Z axis to prevent the system from raising too high, there is a serious possibility of something being damaged if it starts elevating the Z axis and does not stop. After all it uses a 425oz in stepper with a 30:1 gear ratio. I cant get that limit switch to work at all.
I spent so much time working on the Y switch that i never got around to wiring the X switches. And the Z does not work period. And yes, I did read the instructions, all non used switches are pinned into the common for each set. All switches are NC. This is not rocket science.
The DMC-16 is a powerful piece of hardware that comes at an expensive tag. So far I have been able to work around most of the issues I have run into, but I would rather NOT spend time troubleshooting and creating workarounds for some of its failures. I want to be FILMING.
Am I glad I got it? Hell yes. Even though I spent some time harping on it, those are sort of nit-picks. Even with these minor issues I have run into it has giving me some remarkable capability for botanical timelapse. I really hope the dragonframe support team can help me work through the bugs. The Input trigger, shutter trigger, and limit switch issues are the only thing tarnishing what is otherwise one bad ass piece of hardware.
If anybody else has used the DMC-16, I would LOVE to hear your experiences and if you have run into any of these troubles. I do recognize the problems may be that I am just doing things wrong, or messed something up, but I have a pretty good understanding of how input/output triggers work.
If the issues I have run into are user error, I will be sure to provide an update advising I am just an idiot. If Dragonframe comes through and gets this stuff working, I will also let you all know as well. I may seem like I am being hard on this, mainly because these minor issues irritate the shit out of me. I have failed shoot after failed shoot on these stupid lillies, and spent a lot of time trying to debug the issues and creating workarounds rather than shooting footage. But in the end this really is one badass piece of gear, combined with the excellent dragonframe software, this is going to let me do some incredible stuff.
I have only talked to one other person who has used the DMC, and he also had a hard time with the limit switches, I think in the end he abandoned them as he did not see them as overly important.
So as of today, with much time spend with Dragonframe support team the external shutter still does not work. Thier recommendation is to use the Relay output to trigger the splitter instead of the shutter. I got it wired up, and it works like a champ. I would like to have the shutter output working properly, but not at the expense of shipping the unit back to dragonframe, waiting on repair and shipping, delaying my shooting. Right now it does everything I need so i consider that matter resolved.
The limit switches are buggered up, but they seem to know about this now and said they have a firmware update they are working on. I am looking forward to getting that resolved.
The issue where things would lock up and become unresponsive is directly tied into the shutter issue. It was a bit tricky to pinpoint the events needed to cause it. If DF is set to use an external shutter trigger (which mine is), the USB connection still preps the camera for the shutter but does not trigger it. If the external trigger does not trigger the camera, it goes into a limbo state, and if you start monkeying around while it is in that state you can totally fubar it up. So if the external trigger works as expected, there are no issues. Otherwise you can refresh the camera connection which also restores everything. Something that was tripping me up, is TEST SHOT always uses the internal shutter via USB. Add that in the mix and things get a little bit strange, you really have to start paying attention and making notes to bring these issues to light.
So right now, everything is running just fine.
I have Otto the 8 DOF rig running one scene, and a 5 DOF rig running on the 2nd stage with Pan/Tilt/Focus/Linear/Turntable.
I had no illusions that building a system like this would be easy. Nor did I have any illusions that using a system like this would be easy either.
For the past week I have been trying to shoot with Otto and I have had some mixed success. Rather than spending weeks at a time, I have been trying to test it out with fast growing plants and flowers.
The first test went fairly well. From a robotics standpoint everything worked like a charm, but I failed to properly predict the behavior of the plant I was shooting, Until I get into the hang of things, I plan to keep an extra camera trained on Otto so in case something goes wrong I have some visual data of what is going on.
Its kind of cool to watch I think. What you see above is 5 days of filming. Otto’s motion is fantastic, I could not be happier!
However I misjudged the plant. You will see below.
I still consider this a success, besides the fact that the timelape is nothing exciting to watch. I misjudged the speed that the plant would grow, to be honest im not even sure what it is. I have several packs of seeds of various herbs and not all of them are labeled. I expected it to get larger in the end which is why the camera pulled out.
If you look at the 9 second mark on either video, you will see the camera jerks down just a tiny bit. Otto’s routine was set to tilt up and it was going a bit too far. Between frame intervals on the BCM i had stopped the program long enough to adjust the amount of tilt to reduce it because it was going to put the plant outside the frame. This sort of worked, the plant never leaves the frame but I should have immediately applied a keyframe at its current spot, then adjusted it. Since i did not the last keyframe was in a spot further back, meaning the new position of the camera was tilted up slightly more than the last frame, resulting in that little pop.
In general i was fairly pleased and setup for a new shoot using some lillies. I got everything setup, I have 2 shooting stations going, on the left is the main stage, and on the right is stage 2. There might be a stage 3 behind the main stage soon as well.
Above: Main on left, 2nd stage with the herb on the right
Above, Stage 2, using an eMotimo as a makeshift turntable. This will be a 4 axis setup with linear, pan, tilt, and focus when everything is finished. I am waiting on some connectors, in the meantime a simple rotation always looks great on camera
Above: Otto and the main stage with the Lillies
First the camera shut off on me.
Not sure why that happened, I suspect it is the power supply, if it happens again Ill buy one from canon for way too much money.
Started it up again,
Things were going along splendidly, but at one point after a nice thanksgiving meal at my parents house, I was worried I had misjudged the motion of a plant and felt i should try to correct. First things first, I applied keyframes at the current spot to ensure the camera could move back to the exact same location. Everything was working smoothly until Dragonframe stopped seeing the triggers from the BCM. (BCM = biolapse control module, this is the controller I use to coordinate the lighting for shooting, growing, day/night, and control heat/humidity)
After playing around with it I managed to completely botch up the shoot. No big deal, that is what this phase is all about.
Started it up again. This time i noticed that the Canon on Otto was being triggered by USB, and none of the other cameras were triggering from the external shutter control. Even today they still dont work, I had to rewire all the triggers to get around the problem.
And around that point I think I sort of drowned the lillies, the flowers stopped opening.
In the end though, I did not get anything particularly useful. I do have some quick clips though that give an interesting demonstration of the movements that I can get. They are pretty dynamic. Each routine was going to be about 15-20 seconds, and I keep running into issues.
This video is the results of the failed experiments, but with each failure I learned something new. So I’ll chalk it up as a success. I am shooting again right now with some new lillies and feel optimistic.